Overkill, part 1

Trying to streamline and refine my wardrobe presents an on-going challenge for me, both physically and emotionally. As a baby step today, I decided to collect and try on all of my black skirts. In this exercise, I did not include two black skirts that are halves of two-piece dresses, three black gauchos, and one black palazzo pant, which are six black skirt-like pieces in addition to the 24 skirts that are in the photo:

A black skirt for any and every occasion!

One pencil skirt is charcoal grey. Seven of the skirts are prints, patterns or tweeds, primarily black and without any other color except white or neutral. The one with a bit of brown reverses to black with tiny white dots, and another is black lace over a nude underskirt. To be fair, six of the skirts are essentially duplicates: two each of three skirts in two different sizes. I still fit in all of them, but the smaller sized ones are tight. I will wear them comfortably again!

There are professional and dressy skirts, resort wear skirts, party and dancing skirts, and lounging or hippie skirts in about four lengths.

From my perspective, I have a complete wardrobe of any kind of black skirt I could need for any occasion. Yes, a couple of them are duplicates in two sizes. Get over it. Can someone tell me why this isn't a sensible set of basics?

As a collector, I want to record the bouclé pencil skirt by Lanvin, the black St. John knit pencil skirt, the flirty black skirt with a "booty flounce" by Alexander McQueen, two straight skirts (one wool and one knit) by Ann Klein II, a cotton pleated full skirt by Elie Tahari, several by Jones New York, a long print jersey skirt with contrasting pocket trim by Max Edition, a faux-sarong style rayon mini by Jams World, and several generic brands, mostly the multi-tiered cotton gauze skirts and the jersey skirts.

I dread the next step of collecting and sorting my black tops and black pants. But this seems to be an efficient way for me to categorize and assess my things. Fortunately I have few items in colors ... but I do have a Jams World resort clothing collection to rival a retail outlet!

The prospect of collecting all of my black shirts and black pants is daunting, but during that process I certainly will lose quite a few items to the donation box! But next in line for consolidation and cataloging is my collection of resort wear.

Travel Wardrobe for Frozen Europe

Using Polyvore to plan capsule wardrobes, such as those for a trip, is one of my favorite online recreational pursuits. I've been planning and editing a draft travel wardrobe for my upcoming trip, but need to adjust it to account for record low temperatures. I just tried on a pair of warm winter boots buried in my closet to substitute for the regular boots I planned to take.

Also, I decided to take a dress on the trip. Searching my wardrobe, I decided to take this vintage Janice Wainwright black crepe long sleeved dress from the 1970s that I bought in 2003.

The ruffles and bias cut skirt, with a few ruffles along the bias seams, transform an otherwise practical dress to special status. I need to add a belt. It's a lightweight wool, and requires a full length slip underneath.

My color palette is black, grey, white, purple and red. I think it's going to work well. I'll take a few scarves to complement the separates, and a few pieces of jewelry -- including my red floral skull scarf and red heart Swarovski necklace with the gold heart bail.

I think I'm in a Valentine's Day mood! Of course, I'll take a few of my "everyday" necklaces.

Here's how the travel wardrobe is shaping up. Quite a few of these items are the actual pieces I own, but a few of the basics (turtlenecks and suede boots in particular) are generic versions of items I own. I will take only one pair of boots, but haven't decided which. Also will take a warm black quilted rainproof jacket and gloves. I need to hem two pairs of pants (in process) and shorten the sleeves of my black leather/knit jacket, and find a belt that works for the dress. A belt for the pants is already packed.

Another important activity, that I should finish immediately, is the recording of my Spanish refresher CDs into iTunes and on to an iPod. Tear me away from this computer!

p.s. Here's the post-journey debriefing -- what I actually wore while in Spain and Holland:

Closet Cleaning: One Step at a Time

It is downright discouraging to view my overstuffed closet! Yes, I delightedly rediscover fabulous items when I begin to sort through it. I firmly believe that I want to keep most of it, so I'm challenged trying to imagine how to organize it. Yesterday, I decided to devote some time and I managed to organize one drawer. In the process, I discarded several things (yay!), and added a new container for items that don't belong in the drawer. I filled a tiny plastic four drawer Sterilite-type chest with sewing, jewelry-making and other craft items, spare shoe laces, and rarely used clothing accoutrements (sashes and bows, neck ties, self belts) that I had dropped into the drawer for lack of a designated space.Then I cleaned and newly arranged the drawer to be able to see my jewelry (I know what's in the closed boxes). In the resulting array, I featured a name tag from my mom (and her pair of colorful wooden cherubs) that make me think of her and smile each time I open the drawer.

Before: This became a junk drawer for personal items I use occasionally, or want to save. Originally, it contained some jewelry and mementos (still at the bottom of the drawer in nearly original position). Click photos for larger versions.

After: mostly brooches, belt buckles and watches, plus angels -- "Mom" and "Aunt Eleanor" -- that were souvenirs from their 1982 visit to me in Germany. In the before photo, the angels were individually wrapped inside the Crown Royal bag.

Today, I also made an easy decision to delete two working pieces from my wardrobe.

Our friend Margery sent a photo taken at our group holiday in Mexico in June, in which I wore a white sleeveless blouse. Immediately, I thought I looked old and unattractive, even though I have liked the blouse. It fits properly, with darts that match my figure, no gaps between the buttons, and rows of tiny pleats sewn vertically down the front. It is classic, in a quality cotton poplin. But it didn't look stylish or flattering -- just ordinary at best. I know that my Renaissance Man (hubby) will agree that this blouse isn't great on me, because he told me so recently, and I ignored him (with no time to change, and happy that it fits well).

Two evenings ago, I wore my charcoal grey t-shirt knit cotton skirt to hang out with friends. Although I paired it with an interesting and attractive Splendid top, and multi-strand African beaded necklace, I felt somewhat dowdy. I knew the skirt wasn't working, but I wore it anyway, intending to ask C and M if I should delete it from my wardrobe. I forgot to ask, but upon examination after I returned home -- and recalling that I was not complimented on my outfit -- I happily decided that I could part with the skirt. Just to be sure, though, I am wearing it today around the house, styled completely differently than the other night. This time, instead of loose top with oversized bottom, I am following the fashion rule that allows for only one of those pieces to be oversized, and wearing it with a cranberry v-neck sleeveless shapewear top. I've disguised the drawstring waist by using a long scarf as a belt. It looks much better, but still doesn't flatter. The skirt, by Cut Loose, is meant to be comfortable, which is great for my laid back local Hawaiian lifestyle. I remember when I bought it on sale at Macy's in Kona, and thought it was a great basic piece for my wardrobe. It is a terrific basic -- just not for me! I want to look great while feeling comfortable, so I need to learn a lesson from these two fundamental separates. Quality notwithstanding, all clothing must fit well and must flatter me. Doh! Shouldn't I be able to apply that knowledge by now?

During the many years that I was skinny and petite, oversized just looked too big on me. I still looked good. Now that I work to stay trim, oversized clothing adds weight, especially on a petite frame. Also, conventional classics sometimes look ordinary. Lessons learned. Out you go, skirt and blouse!

Closet Cleaning: As Easy as ABC

Alphabet image from Nir Tober's Flickr photostream.
© All rights reserved by Nir Tober

Not quite.

For some, minimalism comes naturally. My husband happily discards almost anything; I seek an alternate use, or a new user, before I'm willing to part with items. I make jokes about being a hoarder -- without doubt I am a collector -- but bristle with denial when accused of hoarding. A bit too touchy about that, eh? A few years ago, my niece Becky said to me, "I don't know why you keep all this stuff. It's just going to be thrown away when you die." Gulp! She may be correct, and this has prompted me to begin to catalog my possessions, so that details and values are identified for my estate. The first thing I did was to catalog my books on LibraryThing. Then I searched for, and "test drove" a few, similar sites to catalog other possessions, but haven't found anything nearly as good as LibraryThing. I need to organize and catalog my art, jewelry, mid-century modern furniture, antique furniture, valuable housewares, and collections of natural objects. If you know of a web-based tool for this, please leave me a comment. For the time being, I've begun to use blogs (private and public) to record the information, and for the past year I've used polyvore to catalog wardrobe additions. It's imperfect, but captures images and original price/vendor info.

Most importantly, I need to condense and organize, before I begin to catalog my entire wardrobe. Between 2001 and 2004, we spent nearly equal time in the Bay Area and on the Big Island. Since we owned two homes, I had built a decent wardrobe in Hawaii, and had a huge one in California. For a couple years, I thought that I couldn't give up San Francisco's rich culture and the excitement of Silicon Valley, but I found myself not wanting to leave Hawaii very often. So we sold the California house. I got rid of many of my life's possessions, and disposed of 70% of my clothing. I lament the loss of some things, but I'm surviving. Of course, I have acquired too many things since 2004, and my closet has become overstuffed and unmanageable. It's to the point that I don't even know what I have to wear!

I know the rules for downsizing a wardrobe, and had some successs culling mine again prior to my September vacation. One of my destinations was South Africa, and I envisioned taking a suitcase full of highly desirable, like-new pieces of clothing from my wardrobe. This made it much easier for me to part with perfectly good items that I just wasn't using -- I was able to imagine what a great score it would be for a poor person in Africa, and that made me happy to part with it.

As it turned out, I didn't take the clothes with me. The friends I was visiting did not want any more clothes to donate. They had distributed too many things too many times. So, I moved the clothes into a large plastic garbage bag, and now think I'll try to consign them, or perhaps sell them on ebay. If I don't do either within thirty days, I'll donate them.

My quest to organize and itemize my closet is tedious, and involves tasks that I find unappealing. I don't want to part with most things. So, I procrastinate. I read blogs, forums and articles about how to clean my closets. Virtually nothing applies to me. I require many categories of clothing. Exercises, such as this one by the Closet Coach, don't apply to me, except within one of my subcategories.

My first category has three overlapping subcategories:

Resident of Hawaii wardrobe:
Every Day Wear  (82°F daily around the house and resort -- mostly rayon, linen, cotton sleeveless)
• Jams World, Glima, Cinnamon Girl style clothes. 
• lightweight shorts, capris, pants
• lightweight tank tops, camisoles
• lightweight  Ts and overshirts
• casual skirts and dresses
• yoga and workout clothes
• Bathing suits, hats, and cover-ups
• open sandals and wedge slides
Aloha Wear - Resort Wear (separate, but some overlap with every day wear)
• Tory Richard, Tommy Bahama, Ralph Lauren style clothes
• tropical print silk dresses, sheer shawl
• Silk tanks, tees, camp shirts in tropical prints and colors
• Silk bermuda shorts, skirts and capris in solid colors and neutrals
• Holiday - special occasion wear
• Golf and tennis separates
• Dressy and sparkly sandals
Upcountry Wear and Outdoor Gear (our nearby town is at 2500 feet, and has a 5° - 30° cooler climate than the coast)
• Anne Klein, Jones New York, INC style clothes
• jeans and khakis, all lengths
• dresses, skirts, tops -- coordinated separates
• 3/4 sleeve and long sleeve tees, sweaters, sweatshirts, tops
• jackets, rain gear, gloves
• Special occasion wear for cool to cold evenings
• flats and pumps, socks and stockings, boots, hiking shoes

My second category addresses my desire to maintain a tightly-edited Classic Business wardrobe with a small sub-category for my Hawaii-specific wardrobe needs as a State Political Delegate 
Range: cool to tropical climates
• skirt suits
• professional dresses
• blazers, jackets, cardigans
• dress pants and skirts
• silk button down shirts and tees
• classic pumps, flats, loafers
• hosiery

Third and fourth categories are for an International All-season Travel wardrobe that covers urban-chic clothing for spring and fall in London or Amsterdam, summer in Manhattan or San Francisco, winter in Saint Petersburg, or any season in the High Sierra or South African wild animal parks. The fourth category covers Special Occasions such as weddings, funerals, fund-raisers -- sometimes in other climates and sometimes in other cultures. These two categories overlap somewhat with my "Resident of Hawaii" and/or "Business Wardrobe" subcategories.

The fifth wardrobe category is for my Vintage Clothing, specifically outfits by Janice Wainwright. I haven't decided if I want to create a category for my high end, designer ready to wear and runway pieces, but may do that as well, although each piece will work within other categories. I don't have many, but I do treasure them, and wear them with care whenever there's an appropriate opportunity. I also need a category for Accessories, primarily to identify my scarf collection, but also to itemize pareos (sarongs), belts, hats, and other accessories. One category may suffice for both Shoes and Handbags, but I the final decision will be made when I begin to enter them.

You never can own too many necklaces!

I view Jewelry as separate from my wardrobe categories, since insurance requirements are specific.

Am I missing any wardrobe categories? Is there a better way to categorize and inventory my stuff?:

What I Wore in England and Cornwall

Here's what I took to England and Cornwall:

And a few outfit shots. First, my Chanel jacket with lots of pearls, worn to Afternoon Tea at the Lanesborough Conservatory. Such a disappointing tea, extraordinarily overpriced.

Quite unexpectedly, we were invited to the Mehndi Lunch of a Pakistani Muslim groom and Indian Hindu Bride. This was held at the Royal Aeronautical Society in Hamilton Place near Park Lane. We were told that friends of the groom wore red, and our connection was to the groom, so I wore this outfit (being unprepared) but with my red jersey shirt, instead of the white one shown in my “tryout photo.” We walked the half mile from our hotel, and my feet were killing me! Never again will I walk in heeled shoes that haven’t been tested.

Here, I'm dressed quite casually for breakfast at our hotel in Bath ...

For our special day at Avebury and Stonehenge, I was able to wear my Alexander McQueen skull scarf with my red tunic and black leggings, both by Eileen Fisher, along with my favorite Naot ‘Matai’ shoes.

Creating Outfits for my Chanel Jacket

Putting outfits together when traveling for two weeks with a minimum number of pieces of clothing is an enjoyable puzzle. I discovered that Caroline intends to check a bag, so I don't need to limit myself to carry-on luggage.

Of course, I don't like how I look; I need to lose five pounds to look better in anything. Also, it is much too hot in Hawaii to try on these layers, and I'm sweating in all of the photos as I try on the outfits!

At any rate, here are four looks with my Chanel jacket. Instead of the black dress, I may just use one of the black tops and the black skirt that I am taking already. 

One accessory that I may take, but am not wearing in these photos, is my black cuff. I'll wear it when my wrists are exposed.

I gathered all of my faux pearls and layered them with a black dress. I think it needs a belt, but I don't want to break up the all black line. Not sure what to do to polish this look. Or is it silly? I've never worn all the pearls together before; even though Coco Chanel was an advocate, it seems risky. I learned that Chanel style was tamer ... more dignified. But I do like to wear my Chanel jacket with jeans.

For many years, I wore a perfectly tailored man's black flecked wool jacket as my primary coat about town in San Francisco. I dressed it up or down as needed, and it always worked. It's still in my closet, even though I've moved on. But what about the somewhat campy look of layering with pearls? Does it make me look top heavy? Can it be improved?

Not sure about the belt, seems like it needs another element ... but what?

Another option is the same outfit with my Circus scarf. I prefer this look.

I could drape the scarf in the center, and add a large brooch to the jacket. Any other suggestions?

I have a gorgeous embroidered satiny silk shirt from Shanghai Tang that's probably wasted in this outfit:

Does anybody think this looks good?
Jacket: Chanel (autumn 2009 runway)
Shirt: Shanghai Tang
Pearl necklace: Deltah
Skirt: Ann Klein
Boots: Cole Haan

Even though I love the look of an untucked shirt hanging longer under a jacket, I'm not comfortable with it on myself. I was trained to view that as sloppy. So, I'll probably leave this shirt at home, and stick with the safer white button down shown earlier: